How to know what type of skin you have (and choose your ideal routine)

Oily skin. Dry skin. Combination skin. Sensitive skin. Normal skin. You've probably heard these terms a thousand times. And yet, you're probably still not entirely sure which one is yours.

Don't worry. It's more common than you think. Most people choose products blindly, based on what the packaging says or what worked for their best friend. The result: routines that do nothing or, worse, make things worse.

Knowing your skin type is the first step to stop wasting time and money. And no, you don't need a dermatologist to find out.

Skin type vs. skin condition

Before anything else, let's clarify something important. Your skin type and the condition of your skin are not the same thing.

Skin type is genetic. It's determined by how your sebaceous glands function and the structure of your skin. It doesn't change drastically throughout your life, although it can evolve with age.

Your skin's condition, however, is temporary. It can be dehydrated, irritated, congested, or sensitive at any given time, regardless of your base skin type. Oily skin can be dehydrated. Dry skin can experience a breakout.

This confusion is the cause of many mistakes. Someone with oily but dehydrated skin uses astringent products that make everything worse. Someone with dry but sensitive skin applies layers of rich creams that irritate it even more.

First, identify your type. Then, observe what state it's in right now. And choose products that address both of those things.

The 5 skin types (and how to identify yours)

Normal skin

Normal skin is the unicorn of skin types. Few people truly have it.

It is characterized by a natural balance between oil and moisture. It doesn't over-shine, doesn't flake, and is virtually insensitive to various factors. Pores are small and barely visible. The texture is smooth and the tone is even.

If you have normal skin, congratulations. Your job is to keep it that way: gentle cleansing, light moisturizing, and sun protection. No fuss.

Dry skin

Dry skin produces less sebum than necessary. It lacks lipids, those natural fats that form a protective barrier.

How does it feel? Tight, especially after cleansing. It may flake in some areas, particularly in winter or in cold weather. Sometimes it itches. The pores are very small, almost invisible. The skin may look dull and lifeless.

Dry skin needs products that provide lipids and retain moisture. Rich textures, oils, and ingredients like ceramides and squalene. And, above all, gentle cleansers that don't strip away what little moisture it has.

Oily skin

Oily skin produces excess sebum. It's shiny, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin). The pores appear large and enlarged. It's prone to blackheads, whiteheads, and acne breakouts.

A very common mistake: thinking that oily skin doesn't need hydration. False. It does need hydration, but light hydration in formats that don't add more oil. Water-based serums, gels, and fluid textures are ideal.

And another mistake: using harsh products to "dry up" oil. This only causes the skin to react by producing more sebum. The goal is not to eliminate oil, but to regulate it.

The good news: oily skin ages more slowly. That sebum that bothers us so much also protects us.

Combination skin

Combination skin is the most common. It combines characteristics of several skin types in different areas of the face.

Typically, the T-zone is oily (shiny, with visible pores, prone to blemishes) while the cheeks are normal or even dry. It's like having two different skin types on the same face.

The challenge is finding the balance. Products that hydrate dry areas without making oily areas greasy. Lightweight textures, balancing formulas. Sometimes it makes sense to use different products on each area.

Sensitive skin

Sensitive skin isn't exactly a type, but rather a condition that can affect any skin type. You can have oily and sensitive skin, or dry and sensitive skin.

How can you recognize it? It reacts easily. Redness, itching, burning, and tightness appear in response to new products, temperature changes, stress, or certain ingredients. The skin barrier is weakened, and the skin becomes inflamed easily.

Sensitive skin needs clean formulas, free of fragrances, irritating alcohols, and harsh ingredients. Brands like Pai Skincare are specifically formulated for this skin type: each product is designed to minimize the risk of reaction.

The home test

There are many tests circulating online. Most are oversimplified. This is the one that actually works:

Step 1: Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry, without rubbing.

Step 2: Don't apply anything for at least two hours. No creams, serums, or toners. Let your skin express itself naturally.

Step 3: Observe and touch.

• If your whole face is shiny and feels somewhat slippery to the touch: oily skin.
• If your face feels tight, rough, or even itchy: dry skin.
• If the T-zone is shiny but the cheeks are normal or tight: combination skin.
• If the skin feels comfortable, neither oily nor tight, with an even texture: normal skin.

Step 4: Blotting paper test (optional but helpful). Press a blotting paper or tissue against different areas of your face. If it absorbs a lot of oil in the T-zone but not on your cheeks, it confirms combination skin. If it absorbs oil everywhere, it's oily skin. If it barely absorbs any, it's dry or normal skin.

Common mistakes when identifying your skin type

Confusing dehydration with dryness. Dehydration is a lack of water. Dryness is a lack of lipids. You can have oily and dehydrated skin at the same time: it will be shiny but feel tight. That doesn't mean it's combination skin.

• Don't judge based on just one day . Your skin changes depending on the weather, hormones, stress, and what you ate yesterday. Observe it for at least a week before making a decision.
• Don't let yourself be swayed by a single symptom . Having a breakout doesn't mean your skin is oily. Having a tight feeling doesn't mean it's dry. Look at the overall pattern.
• Comparing yourself to others . Just because your friend has oily skin and uses a certain product doesn't mean it will work for you. Every skin is unique.
• Ignoring the neck and décolleté area . Sometimes the face has one type of skin and the neck another. If you apply products to both areas, keep this in mind.

Your skin type can change (and that's normal)

Although skin type is primarily genetic, it is not immutable.

With age, sebum production decreases. Many people who had oily skin in their teens develop combination or even normal-to-dry skin in their 30s or 40s.

Hormones also play a role. The menstrual cycle, pregnancy, menopause, and certain medications can temporarily alter how your skin behaves.

The weather matters. In summer, the skin tends to produce more sebum. In winter, heating and cold weather dry it out.

That's why it makes sense to reassess your skin periodically and adjust your routine according to its needs at any given time.

How to choose products according to your skin type

Once you know what type of skin you have, choosing products becomes much easier.

• For dry skin: look for rich textures and ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and nourishing oils. Opt for milk or balm cleansers that don't strip away natural lipids. Pai's Rosehip BioRegenerate is a multi-purpose oil that regenerates, nourishes, and works on all skin types, but dry skin especially loves it.
  
  
• For oily skin: lightweight textures, water-based serums, gel or fluid moisturizers. Ingredients like niacinamide (regulates sebum), salicylic acid (cleanses pores), or zinc. Lumilixir is an oil-free serum with vitamin C and hyaluronic acid that hydrates without leaving a greasy residue and leaves skin radiant.
  
  
• For combination skin: balancing products that hydrate without adding oil. Sometimes it makes sense to use different products on each area. Serums usually work very well because they penetrate without leaving a surface residue.
  
  
• For sensitive skin: clean formulas, free of fragrances and irritants. Specialized brands that formulate with reactive skin in mind. The Anthemis by Pai is a moisturizer with chamomile and rosehip that soothes and nourishes without the risk of irritation. For both sensitive and combination skin, The Pioneer balances the T-zone while calming.
  
  
• For normal skin: you're free to experiment. Maintain a basic routine of cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection, and add treatments according to your goals (radiance, anti-aging, etc.).

The key isn't following a ten-step routine. It's knowing your skin, listening to it, and giving it exactly what it needs. Nothing more, nothing less.